Drywall for a 20 × 18 ft ceiling: ⅝″ 4 × 8 on 16″ joists
| Boards12% waste — ceilings cut around fixtures | 13⅝″ 4 × 8 ft |
|---|---|
| Ceiling area20 × 18 ft | 360ft² |
| Sag check⅝″ 4 × 8 ft is rated for framing at 16″ o.c. | OK |
| Screws12″ spacing on ceilings, not 16″ — about 1 lb box | 504screws |
| Joint compound | 0.84.5 gal buckets |
| Paper tape | 166linear ft |
| Weight per boardoverhead — a panel lift is worth the hire, and it is not optional on ⅝″ 12 ft boards | 70lb |
| Fixture cut-outscut after the board is up, from the joist positions marked on the floor | 4holes |
- Length
- 20 ft
- Width
- 18 ft
- Board
- ⅝″ 4 × 8
- Joist spacing
- 16 in o.c.
- Light fittings
- 4
A ceiling is not a wall lying down
Three things change, and all three are in the standards rather than in preference.
Thickness depends on framing spacing. ½″ standard board sags between joists at 24″ on center — it looks fine for a season and then develops a slow wave that no skim coat corrects. At 24″ you want ⅝″, or ½″ sag-resistant board rated for it.
Sag check for this ceiling: OK.
Screws every 12 inches, not 16. A ceiling board fights gravity for its whole life; a wall board rests on the plate. That is 504 screws here.
Boards run perpendicular to the joists. A board bridging several joists is far stiffer than one running along a single bay, and it spreads load across the joints instead of concentrating it.
What to buy
13 boards of ⅝″ 4 × 8, 0.8 buckets of compound, 166 linear ft of tape.
Waste is 12% rather than the 10% used on walls, because a ceiling gets cut around 4 light fitting4 plus vents and the perimeter.
Each board weighs 70 lb, overhead
A panel lift is worth the hire. On the heavier boards it is not a convenience — it is the difference between doing the job and dropping a board on somebody.
Mark the joists on the floor first
Once a board is up you cannot see the framing, and hunting for it with a screw gun leaves a ceiling full of holes that all have to be filled.
Notes
- ⅝″ 4 × 8 ft is rated for 16″ framing. Note it is the **board** that carries the rating, not the paint or the texture over it.
- **Screws every 12 inches on a ceiling**, not 16. A ceiling board fights gravity for its whole life; a wall board rests on the plate. That difference is why ceiling screw patterns are tighter, and why a ceiling that was screwed to wall spacing shows fastener pops first.
- Run the boards **perpendicular to the joists**. A board bridging several joists is far stiffer than one running along a single bay, and it spreads the load across the joints instead of concentrating it.
- Each board weighs 70 lb overhead. Two people can manage it, but a panel lift makes the joints tighter because nobody is fighting the weight while positioning.
- Mark the joist positions on the floor before you lift a board. Once it is up you cannot see them, and hunting for framing with a screw gun leaves a ceiling full of holes.
- 12% waste rather than the 10% used on walls — ceilings are cut around 4 lights, plus any fan boxes, vents and the perimeter.
Nearby sizes
- Drywall for a 18 × 18 ft ceiling: ⅝″ 4 × 8 on 16″ joists
- Drywall for a 22 × 18 ft ceiling: ⅝″ 4 × 8 on 16″ joists
- Drywall for a 16 × 18 ft ceiling: ⅝″ 4 × 8 on 16″ joists
- Drywall for a 24 × 18 ft ceiling: ⅝″ 4 × 8 on 16″ joists
- Drywall for a 20 × 16 ft ceiling: ⅝″ 4 × 8 on 16″ joists
- Drywall for a 20 × 15 ft ceiling: ⅝″ 4 × 8 on 16″ joists
- Drywall for a 20 × 18 ft ceiling: ½″ sag-resistant on 16″ joists
- Drywall for a 20 × 18 ft ceiling: ⅝″ 4 × 12 on 16″ joists
- Drywall for a 20 × 18 ft ceiling: ½″ 4 × 12 on 16″ joists
- Drywall for a 20 × 18 ft ceiling: ⅝″ 4 × 8 on 24″ joists
- Drywall for a 20 × 18 ft ceiling: ⅝″ 4 × 8 on 16″ joists
- Drywall for a 20 × 18 ft ceiling: ⅝″ 4 × 8 on 16″ joists
- Drywall for a 20 × 18 ft ceiling: ⅝″ 4 × 8 on 16″ joists